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Alpine Tour recommended route

Breslauer Hut - Wildspitze

Alpine Tour · Oetztal
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Ötztal Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Breslauer Hütte
    / Breslauer Hütte
    Photo: Ötztal Tourismus, Ötztal
  • / Breslauer Hütte
    Photo: Ötztal Tourismus, Ötztal
  • / Wildspitze
    Photo: Ötztal
  • / Wildspitze
    Photo: Ötztal
  • / Wildspitze im Abendrot
    Photo: Bianca Klotz, Ötztal
  • / soel_wildspitze_sommer_01_08
    Photo: Ötztal Tourismus, Fotograf: Bernd Ritschel
  • / Gipfelkreuz Wildspitze
    Photo: Bianca Klotz, Ötztal
  • / Wildspitze
  • / die Wildspitze - höchster Berg Tirols
m 3800 3600 3400 3200 3000 2800 2600 4,0 3,5 3,0 2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 km
BRESLSAUER HÜTTE -> WILDSPITZE
difficult
Distance 4 km
7:00 h
809 m
6 m
Hike from Breslauer Hütte across the Rofenkar Glacier towards Wildspitze; descend via the Mitterkarjoch col towards Breslauer Hütte. Walking time: approx. 6 ½ to 7 hours; descend to Vent (¾ h) to the lift.

Author’s recommendation

Reservation of the hut sleeping places necessary!
Profile picture of Ötztal Tourismus
Author
Ötztal Tourismus 
Update: May 06, 2021
Difficulty
difficult
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
3,644 m
Lowest point
2,834 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec

Safety information

For high alpine experienced mountaineers that are free from vertigo & surefooted. Excellent physical condition, extensive mountain experience, alpine climbing gear, safety- and orientation guide, good weather conditions recommended. Please pay attention to the current weather report: www.oetztal.com

Tips and hints

More details about hiking In Ötztal: https://www.oetztal.com/wandern 

Start

Breslauer Hütte (2,839 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Wildspitze

Turn-by-turn directions

Wildspitze (3.774 m)

Starting point: Breslauer Hütte

1) From Breslauer Hütte on the „normal“ route:

Follow the marked trail (partially marked by stones) onto Mitterkar glacier. Across the glacier (quite steep towards the end) up to Mitterkarjoch. Onwards across Taschach glacier (some crevasses) and Firnschneide (often icey) up to the southern peak.

Duration: ca. 4 hours

2) From Breslauer Hütte across Rofenkar glacier:

From the refuge in a northerly direction on a good path to Rofenkar glacier. Ascent across the glacier (numerous crevasses) towards Felsinsel (3.468 m) and pass this on the right, then turn westwards onto Urkundsattel. Across snow and ice up to the cliffs and across these (steep but not too difficult) to the southern summit.

Duration: ca. 4 hours

3) From Breslauer Hütte via Ötztaler Urkund:

Follow the path towards Mitterkar glacier, after about 5 minutes turn right and follow bends up to Urkundholm (3.140 m). Follow the track up to the south eastern ridge and across this (exposed climbing grade III) up to Ötztaler Urkund (3.556 m). Short descent and across Firn snow to Urkundsattel. Across snow and ice up to the cliffs and across these (steep but not too difficult) to the southern summit.

Duration: total ascent ca. 4 hours

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Enjoy a both comfortable and relaxing train ride to the train station in Ötztal Bahnhof. You get off the train in ÖTZTAL Bahnhof where you change to a public bus or local taxi. The current bus schedule can be found at: http://fahrplan.vvt.at

 

Getting there

The car drive to the Ötztal valley. Situated in Tirol, the Ötztal valley set off in southerly direction and is the longest side valley in the Eastern Alps. The journey with the car leads you through the Inntal valley to the entrance of the valley and further on through the valley. Among the toll motorways you can also use the country roads. A route planner will show you the easiest and most convenient way: https://www.google.at/maps

Parking

The following parking options are available in the mountaineering village Vent

- In summertime in front of the village (parking machine, only coins or EC card) and at the chairlift (at the ticket office of the mountain railways)

- In wintertime only at the chairlift

Cost: € 5,00 per day/car

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Author’s map recommendations

Kompass #042 | Inneres Ötztal und Pitztal, Gurgler Tal, Venter Tal | 1:25.000

Kompass #43 | Ötztaler Alpen, Ötztal, Pitztal | 1:50.000

Freytag&Bernd WK 251  | Ötztal, Pitztal, Kaunertal, Wildspitze  | 1:25:000

Kompass | Bike- & Wanderkarte Ötztal | 1:35.000

Equipment

Appropriate equipment such as breathable suitable outdoor clothes for the weather, ankle-high walking boots, wind-, rain- & sun protection, hat, possibly gloves, is for all hikes and tours necessary. Please bring a first-aid box, a mobile phone, a walking map and if there is no hut on the way a snack and enough to drink.

Basic Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Long, warm technical socks plus liners and spares
  • 35-45 liter rucksack  (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Lip protection (SPF 30+)
  • Water- and windproof mountaineering jacket and trousers with ankle adjustment or separate gaiters
  • Water- and windproof gloves plus thin fleece inner gloves
  • Neckwear
  • moisture wicking skull / knit cap
  • Hiking poles
  • Sunglasses
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Blister kit
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • B2 or B3 mountaineering boots
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Ice axes (basic or technical with hammer and adze as required)
  • C2-C3 crampons with anti-balling plates (as required by route and to match boots)  
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Set of ice screws
  • Short ice screws
  • Medium ice screws
  • Long ice screws
  • V-Thread tool
  • 2x Harness tool holder such as the Ice Clipper or Caritool
  • Quickdraws
  • Locking device

Camping Equipment

  • Tent (3- or 4-season)
  • Stove (including fuel and utensils)
  • Sleeping mat. Sleeping bag with suitable temperature rating.
  • Food
  • Toiletries and medication
  • Toilet paper

Things to Bring if Staying in a Mountain Hut

  • Toiletries and medication
  • Quick-drying towel  
  • Ear plugs
  • Sleeping bag liner
  • Sleepwear
  • Alpine club membership card if applicable / ID
  • Coronavirus mask and hand sanitizer
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

Similar routes nearby

  • Ötztal Trek Stage 17
  • Hinterer Brochkogel
  • Seufertweg Breslauer Hütte - Vernagthütte
  • Vent - Breslauer Hütte - Rofenkar - Wilder Mann
  • Höhenweg Sonnberg
  • Vent-Breslauer hut - Vernagthut - Hochjoch Hospiz - Vent
  • Wilder Mann
 These suggestions were created automatically.
Difficulty
difficult
Distance
4 km
Duration
7:00 h
Ascent
809 m
Descent
6 m
Scenic Refreshment stops available Summit route

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